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      <h1 class="post-title">瑞典挪威逐光七日记(5)：Tromsø</h1>

      <div class="post-meta">
        <span class="post-time"> 2017-02-15 </span>
        <div class="post-category">
            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
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          <span class="more-meta"> 约 1745 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 4 分钟 </span>
        <span id="busuanzi_container_page_pv" class="more-meta"> <span id="busuanzi_value_page_pv"><img src="/img/spinner.svg" alt="spinner.svg"/></span> 次阅读 </span>
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    <div class="post-toc" id="post-toc">
  <h2 class="post-toc-title">文章目录</h2>
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  <ul>
    <li><a href="#极光">极光</a></li>
    <li><a href="#2月5日-峡湾镇">2月5日 峡湾镇</a></li>
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    <div class="post-content">
      <div class="admonition question"><p class="admonition-title">不是逐光游吗，说好的光呢？</p>
<p>​不要急，这就来。</p>
<h2 id="极光">极光</h2>
</div>
<p>前次赏光效果不佳，这次决定挂靠个组织。​晚上花1000克朗/人报了个极光团。这是个个体户极光团，所有资产就一辆面包车。观测点都在免费的野地，没有营地也没有帐篷。导游是个加拿大出生的澳大利亚人，跑到Tromso做电影和艺术会展，兼职做做导游。</p>
<p>当天天气很好，各项预测指数都爆表，看到极光的几率很大。8点钟，司机把车开到主岛南端的小码头，一群人​顺着结冰的路面走到埠头上，架起三脚架，开始朝西看。此处虽然离市中心只有几公里，但位置很讨巧，灯光已经非常稀疏，利于观测。</p>
<p>我以为得等上个两三小时，结果很快夜空就起了变化。肉眼看到的是薄雾一般的暗光，但微微泛绿，快速地变化形状。光带的上端是闪烁的向上冲的芒刺。​这无疑就是极光了。</p>
<p>这未免太容易了吧？真不敢相信。跑这么点路就能看这么清楚，真是知识创造财富。​</p>
<p>由于没有三脚架，只能用手端着手机延时曝光，画面糊成印象派。​</p>
<p>​司机很有经验，调好相机参数，先丢一发暗闪光，然后再按快门，就能同时捕捉到极光和人像，明暗对比非常合适。</p>
<p>​看了半个多小时，再次发车，开过Sandnessund桥，绕到城北Kvaløya岛的一个山坳里。山体挡住了月亮，夜空显得格外黑。在这里，极光分外妖娆。时而横贯夜空，时而星芒绽放，时而交织掩映，时而轻纱环笼。极光的变换非常迅速，突然间盈满夜空，甚至会旋转和舞动，但倏忽间又消隐不见。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OjDxothff.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OjF3rBX35.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OjGfiUw40.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OjH8f5g12.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OjHSv4Cba.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​肉眼看到的极光更像透明的云彩，而相机曝光较久，色彩偏绿，规模更大，但那种灵动的姿态，相机却捕捉不到。在有些时候，激光边缘呈粉红或紫色，肉眼能看到丰富的层次，但普通相机就很难捕捉完全。</p>
<p>下面再贴几张三脚架+微单的成果，比手持渣手机的画质好多了。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OkFF4Bh5f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光（微单拍摄）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OkGj2IUf0.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光（微单拍摄）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OkGOeXc9e.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光（微单拍摄）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OkHdj3q68.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光（微单拍摄）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OkHEkQd65.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：极光（微单拍摄）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>真是收获满满的一天。</p>
<h2 id="2月5日-峡湾镇">2月5日 峡湾镇</h2>
<p>今天没有什么安排，就照着攻略去峡湾镇（Ersfjordbotn)。峡湾镇没几个住户，到底玩啥呢？据说就是拍拍峡湾，看看日升日落，当然也可以到附近爬雪山、滑雪，看极光。所以正确的打开方式，应该是自驾。</p>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">吐槽</p>
<p>顺带吐槽一下挪威语。你看瑞典语虽然奇奇怪怪，起码拼法还比较正常，看了能大概猜猜读音。再看这个Ersfjordbotn，横看竖看都更像一串随机口令。​瑞典语和挪威语起源有差异，但还是有不少相通之处，比如瑞典语的路叫väg，挪威语叫vegen，但从外国人问路友好度来说，挪威语是渣级别的。</p>
</div>
<p>我们不自驾，只有选公交。​本来42路1小时直达，结果周末42路只开到Eidkjosen，接下来要转755。坐上755，跟在挪威境内坐过的所有公交一样，没有报站，所以稀里糊涂地坐过了站。司机说，待会儿我还要开回去，要不到时候再载你们？我们连忙说，不了不了，我们就这儿下。</p>
<p>车上还有一对情侣，和我们一起上的车。他们没有下车，跟着司机坐到终点站，又坐了回去。我们看着他们绝尘而去，感到很纳闷。</p>
<p>​其实他们才是对的。峡湾镇毛都没有，根本不值得下车。</p>
<p>我们在空无一人的小镇上走了走，拍了些海岸和雪山，越走越觉得坑爹。小镇连个咖啡馆、餐厅或小卖部都没有。公交车要两小时后才来。峡湾直通大西洋，比Tromso冷很多。思来想去，决定走回Eidkjosen。</p>
<p>5公里的雪路，跟机动车共线，走得不太顺畅。​好在沿途风光不错。这5公里正好处在三个峡湾交汇处，实际是个地峡。所以峡湾景观很丰富。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78Omj2MQc44.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：峡湾</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OmjMTZc1e.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：峡湾</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OmkT4qwc4.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：峡湾</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OmlLM1Nc7.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：峡湾</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OmmFWAs94.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：峡湾</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>这里是其中一个峡湾的尽头。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78Omnu3Nj3d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：峡湾</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OmooJ8U5c.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：峡湾</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78Omqx6Z73d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：峡湾</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>从夕阳初下，走到了黄昏月明，内心是崩溃的。这个惨痛教训告诉我们，无良攻略害死人。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78PRyoYTEea.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图: 对于那些热情洋溢写无良攻略的人，我不禁要大声问一句</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2017/0215/001ZzLsRzy78OmqYNv7cd.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：夜色中的乱码镇</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​Eidkjosen镇人气要旺得多，这里还有一家远近几十里唯一的大型超市。我们走到的时候，正是饭点，很多人聚在里面。厕所都排起长龙。我们在这里买了不少特色巧克力，还花50多克朗吃了顿高热量晚餐，包括猪肉和牛肉糜做成的大肉饼（感觉比瑞典大肉丸好吃），以及辣味土豆泥。就性价比而言，比Tromso高多了。​</p>
<p>​怎么说呢。还不如去看个极地博物馆之类，或者干脆花点银子出海去看鲸啊。</p>
<p>[待续]</p>
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